Information on moss care as well as questions and answers.

***Icy weather***MOSS is FINE in snow and ice. If it arrives frozen just allow it to thaw naturally :-)

All moss is harvested the day before I ship or that same day. I do not use any type of pesticides on these. Because of this...there may be a small Arkansas Traveler or 2 when you get the package  (insects,ants,gnats,worm,etc.). They are sealed in plastic bags so you should see them in the bags(ants,worms,gnats etc). If you do and you are using these in terrariums with no live animals...then you can place a cotton ball that has been soaked with bug killer into the bag to kill any insects you may have.

Moss is all PESTICIDE free so some natural things like small ants gnats may be in yours. If needed an all natural spray seen here can be used with no damage to your moss but great for terrariums or moss used to lay out on a table etc. I just spary a few squirts in the bag or lay all your moss in a tub or large garbage bag and spray.

I like to use a natural plant Pyrethrins which is found in a fly spray by Country vet and is also used in our home and in restaurants. It can be found on line or at feed stores/co cops/vet supplys etc. even sometimes at janitor supply stores. Love it!

If this is being used in a vivarium I do not suggest this...any small bug that may be in there would probably be eaten by your critter. You can also just lay they moss outside and then inspect for any type of insect there may be.

When making terrariums with the moss or even lichens...eggs may have been laid on your moss so that these small bugs may hatch later. Again a small amount of pesticide on a cotton ball placed inside of your closed terrarium should take care of that. Keep in there for a few days to keep all hatching's killed. I have had baby grasshoppers as well born in my terrariums.

I am passing this along because there were some small black ants found in some cushion moss by a customer. They will not harm your moss but I just want you to be aware that I do not spray anything here. Thanks so much for your understanding here,Teresa.   

Listed here is a variety of moss plants I have for sale.

If you are wanting another amount not shown then contact me via email at

What to do with my moss if I can not use right away?

So you bought some moss and no time to use right away or have some left. I just ran a test on my moss for keeping in the refrigerator and yes even the freezer. It did just fine! After 11 days in both places I placed 5 types of my moss in there and in both places after it came out and 3 weeks later it was still alive even after watering several times. So yes you can store your moss in the refrigerator or even freeze if needed for a few weeks. Nice to know this really does work :-)

The moss is packed pretty close to each other in the bags and can stay like that for several weeks so long as it is NOT in direct sun where it will cook in the bag. It does need the light as soon as you can open it from the box shipped in so as to get greened up from lack of light.

You can also lay the moss into say a large clear glass baking dish and cover with plastic wrap. this also acts like a large temporary style terrarium house. This helps from keeping in the bags to long smashed against each other and causing possible brown spots from each other and causing soiled/dirty spots that may turn I always say either split the moss into several larger ziploc bags or try the glass dish and plastic wrap.



Teresa's Plants & More Store



Here is some fun basic material I have gathered and copied for you to help in making and maintaining your own terrariums.


Interesting Moss Facts
Moss has no root system it anchors itself to the ground using rhizoids.
Moss has no vascular tissue for sending nutrients and water throughout the plant.
Moss gets its nourishment from the air, photosynthesis, and water.
Under stressful conditions moss & lichens are able to temporarily stop growing and go dormant.
Moss reproduces by means of spores which are very dependent on an ample supply of moisture. As moss does not take up moisture through a root system, it is much happier receiving moisture through misting or rainwater instead of a drenching.

Planning a terrarium

Closed, open or dish garden?
The first step in planning a terrarium is to decide whether it will be open (no lid or cover) or closed. Closed terrariums retain the most humidity, followed by open terrariums and then dish gardens. Open terrariums and dish gardens require more frequent watering than do closed, but danger of disease buildup is greater in the latter because of higher humidity.

A terrarium container should be made from clear glass or plastic. Tinted or cloudy glass greatly reduces light transmittance and interferes with plant growth. As long as it is clear, almost any type of container may be used: an empty fish bowl, fish tank, brandy snifter, old glass jar, jug, bottle. Containers specially designed for use as terrariums are also available.

Closed containers should have transparent covers. Containers with small openings also are quite satisfactory. Containers with large openings without covers can be used but will require more frequent watering to maintain the high humidity needed by some plants. However, open terrariums are drier and less subject to disease. Containers with low sides are suitable for dish gardens and need not be transparent.

Growing medium
The growing medium used in terrariums must be clean, well drained and high in organic matter. A prepackaged peat-lite mix (blend of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite) is an excellent choice. Potting soils sold at garden centers and nurseries where plant supplies are sold are sterilized and ready for use. I also love to use the Soil used for Violets as this is a more acidic soil better used for MOSS Terrariums.

Growing medium also can be prepared at home. Mix one part peat moss with one part rich garden soil. Sterilize the mixture by moistening it, covering it with aluminum foil to keep it from drying out while being heated, and placing it in oven at 200 degrees F for about 30 minutes or until it is heated through. The exact time needed depends on the quantity of soil. Using clean tools, spread the soil on clean papers to cool. For planting, the soil should be moist enough to cling in a ball when it is squeezed tightly.

Adding fertilizer to the growing medium usually is not necessary because plants in terrariums should not grow rapidly. If soil-less mixes are used or if the soil used is known to be exceptionally low fertility, light fertilization with a houseplant fertilizer may be done after plants are established.

Decide on a theme for the terrarium: woodland, tropical or desert. When making this decision, consider the temperature and light where the terrarium is to be located. Select plants that suit the location.

Many plants are suitable for growing in terrariums. Plants that have a low and dense growth habit usually are best. Larger plants may be used but must be kept small in terrariums by cutting back the tips.

Don’t mix plants requiring widely different light, temperature and moisture conditions. Succulent plants and cacti are less desirable for terrariums because moist conditions promote rot. Don’t mix desert plants with moisture-loving tropicals.

Table 1 lists some plants suitable for terrarium or dish garden use and describes some of their cultural requirements. Use this table as an aid in selecting plants with similar cultural needs. Plants are listed alphabetically by common name, but because of the variation in and duplication of common names in the plant world, scientific names are included, also. The following points are described in the table:

  • Height
    Terrarium plants often are divided into three size groups: small (1 to 6 inches), medium (6 to 12 inches) or tall (over 12 inches).
    Some small plants actually are creeping or climbing vines that may grow tall in nature, but their height can be limited in the terrarium to form a ground cover. Most plants listed in the tall category need occasional cutting back to be kept low.

  • Light
    Most terrarium plants are in the medium light requirement category and need to be placed near a window with good light. If light from the window is low, supplement with artificial light. Ideally, a terrarium should be placed within several feet of a bright window but not in direct sun. Few plants tolerate low-light conditions for extended periods. For plants listed as low light
    a location no more than about 10 feet from a bright window should suffice. Terrarium plants requiring bright light should be located close to a window, often in direct sun. Cacti or succulents in a dish garden benefit from such exposure. But do not put closed containers in full sun.

  • Container type
    A true terrarium is tightly closed, as was Dr. Ward’s original case. Many plants suited for terrariums require high humidity.
    An open container is one with high sides, generally at least as tall as the plants contained. The opening at the top is not covered. Plants not needing high humidity can be used. Dish refers to a container with sides that are lower than the plants, so that the entire planting is subjected to normal conditions in the room. Plants tolerating low humidity are most suitable for this type of planting.

  • Temperature
    Many terrarium plants are tropical in nature and well suited for normal house temperatures. Plants for low light
    respond well to night temperatures of 65 degrees F and day temperatures normally about 10 degrees higher. The cool designation primarily fits woodland plants in woodland terrariums. These plants should have night temperatures of about 50 to 55 degrees F. Locations with these temperatures may be difficult to find in the home, but in the winter, when plants are placed on a windowsill close to the glass with the drapes pulled behind them, a pocket of cool air will develop. Day temperatures also should be cool but are not as critical.

  • Tools needed: Only a few tools are need to plant a terrarium.

  • Long sticks, either bamboo or 1/4-inch dowel rods
    Use to dig holes, move items and support plants while they are being planted. The appropriate length depends on the height of the container.

  • Household scissors
    Use to prune plants before planting them.

  • Large kitchen spoon
    Use when placing growing media and drainage material in the container. A funnel made from paper or aluminum foil can be helpful for placing the growing media into a container with a very small opening.

  • Atomizer or bulb-type sprayer
    Use when misting and watering the terrarium. A kitchen bulb baster may be used for watering hard-to-reach spots.

  • Stick with a wire loop on the end
    Use for lowering plants into large containers with small openings.

Rocks, gravel and other natural materials — such as sticks, wood, seedpods and bark — provide pleasing accessories in designing terrariums. Ceramic figures of frogs, mushrooms or snails can help to suggest a natural setting. The accessories added are a matter of individual taste. However, avoid using too many accessories or ones with vivid, unnatural colors. Also, be careful not to introduce insects or disease with the accessories.

Below are the instructions you get with your terrarium kits.

Terrarium care instructions-Have Fun!
Living moss does best if given moisture, humidity and light(no direct sun). Most moss types do not like to stay on wet soil all the time so good drainage is also needed. When you first receive your moss it might be a bit dry. However this does not damage the plants. Thoroughly spray the moss with water (distilled or rain water seems to be better for moss) and they will green up within a few hours. Chlorine/Some minerals are NOT good and can brown the moss.
You can make both an open or closed top terrarium. If no lid then water about 7-10 days with lid about every 3-4 weeks. I would also take the lid off for at least 24 hours every few days as moss and lichens do like the air circulation. MOLD will form with to much Water/humidity, so less is always better. Location and house temps play a role too in watering. They love cooler temps.
Build your terrarium this way:
1.Put down small stones. Save some for decoration on top too.
2.Now put organic soil on top of wet moss(Be sure to water soil well first time.)
4.Time to put your moss/Lichens on top of soil, you can always move them around later.
5.NO Direct Sun or Moss will cook in glass. Plant lights also work if no light around.


Assembling the terrarium

When arranging plants, variation in size, color and texture is desirable. Because terrariums usually are viewed from one side, the growing medium should be sloped for viewing from that side and plants arranged so that taller plants are toward the back. Use rocks, sand, wood and other natural materials to create cliffs, rock ledges, dry stream beds or lush tropical forests. Undulations representing hills and valleys will make the scene more interesting than a flat surface. Sketching a design of the terrarium before actually assembling it can be helpful.

Prepare the container
Before planting, clean and disinfect the inside of the container by washing it with hot, soapy water and rinsing thoroughly. Make sure the inside of the container is dry before planting. If a commercial glass cleaner is used, allow the open container to air for several days before planting.

Add drainage material and growing medium
In general, about one quarter of the terrarium’s volume should be used by the growing medium and drainage material. These can be added easily with a spoon, funnel or other convenient tool.

Activated charcoal and pebbles should be placed in the bottom of the container for drainage. These may be mixed together, but the charcoal usually will be most effective in eliminating chemicals that could prove to be toxic to plants if placed in a 1/2-inch layer above the layer of gravel, crushed pots, marble chips or other drainage material. Charcoal is especially important in closed terrariums, which prevent the natural escape of chemicals. Sphagnum moss, placed over the layer of gravel and charcoal, prevents the growing medium from sifting into the drainage area.

Growing medium
Next, add the growing medium. It should be slightly moist so that it doesn’t stir up dust but not so moist that it is muddy and sticks to the sides. For most containers, a minimum depth of 1½ inches is necessary to provide sufficient volume.

Adding plants
Select only healthy, disease-free plants because closed terrariums represent an ideal environment for plant diseases to flourish. If there are disease concerns, enclose plants in a plastic bag and place in bright light for about two weeks before planting in the terrarium. If any diseases are present, they normally will become visible on the foliage or stems.

Before adding the plants, arrange them in an open area about the size of the container to get an idea of relative sizes and textural patterns. A low, coarse-textured plant is often desirable for a dominant focal point near the front. Don’t build a collection of variegated or unusual plants. They compete with each other and don’t create a unified pattern.

To assemble the terrarium, take the plants from their pots and remove extra growing medium to expose the roots. Trim off any leaves that are yellowed or damaged or that show any indication of disease or insects. Trim off some roots from plants that were extremely pot-bound.

Promptly place each plant in the container so that the exposed roots do not dry. In a closed container, try to keep foliage from touching the sides of the container. Leaves touching the glass will collect water and be more subject to decay.

Plants may be placed in deep terrariums using long slender tongs or a stick with a wire loop on the end. Deep containers with small openings will require considerable patience and practice in planting. For such containers, a common practice is to wrap the plant in a piece of paper for protection before inserting it through the small opening. Once the plant is the container, unwrap it and remove the paper. This practice also helps keep the inside of the container clean. Before inserting the plants, dig holes in the growing medium with a pointed stick. After a plant has been placed in a hole, fill in with growing medium and tamp to firm it. A long stick with a cork fixed on the end makes a good tool for lightly tamping the growing medium. After the plants have been positioned, add gravel, sand, moss or other materials to give a finished appearance. Accessories also may be added at this time.

After planting. After planting, mist the plants to wash off growing medium that has stuck to leaves or sides of the container. If the medium was properly moist at planting, heavy watering will not be necessary. The water misted over the leaves is adequate to settle the medium. Don’t cover the terrarium initially. Instead, repeat the misting process after one day. Allow the container to remain open until the foliage is thoroughly dried. Then, if the terrarium is the closed type, apply the cover.

Observe terrarium closely for the first few weeks after planting. Diseases often appear at this time. Any leaves that die or plants that begin to wilt or decay should be removed promptly before the problem spreads to other plants. Root rots often are associated with too much moisture. If rots develop in a closed terrarium, remove the cover to allow more drying. If a fungus seems to be spreading from a plant through the growing medium, it may be beneficial to remove a portion of the medium in the infected area and replace it. Application of a general fungicide also may help to reduce spread of a disease.

In most cases, after a few weeks the terrarium is established and the threat of disease is reduced. Continue to watch for fallen leaves, however, or any plant parts that begin to decay.

Care of the terrarium

A closed terrarium normally will not need water for 4 to 6 months. The failure of condensation to form on the inside of the container or the presence of wilting plants indicates the need for water. Open terrariums need watering occasionally but not as frequently as other houseplants. A dish garden, unless it is the desert type, will need frequent watering. Watering must always be light. Because terrariums have no external drainage, heavy watering results in standing water in the gravel and charcoal, which encourages root diseases. The gravel and charcoal may help overcome occasional light over-watering, but frequent heavy watering will inactivate the system. When watering a closed terrarium, don’t replace the cover until wet foliage has dried.

Never over water. Excess water is almost impossible to remove. Better a little too dry than too wet.

You can however use a paper towel to poke into the soil to help absorb more moisture over a period of time as well.

An open or closed terrarium should not receive direct sunlight. However, a dish garden that contains plants needing bright light may be placed in direct sun. Direct sunlight on a closed or a tall, open container will cause heat buildup that will injure most plants. As previously mentioned, most plants suitable for terrariums don’t require extremely bright light but do well in good light. If the terrarium is in a low-light location, supplement with artificial light. A 100-watt bulb placed close to the terrarium or fluorescent tubes placed over the terrarium will be helpful. Supplemental artificial light should be operated 16 to 18 hours a day.

Plants receiving light from a window gradually will face that direction. To keep the terrarium attractive from the desired view, turn it occasionally to keep the plants growing normally.

Many plants in a terrarium will gradually outgrow their limited space. A little trimming quickly brings them into bounds and often promotes side-shoot growth that fills out plants. Pinching out tips before plants become too tall results in better growth than severe cutbacks. Be sure to remove all trimmed vegetation from the terrarium.

Because plants in terrariums should not grow rapidly, terrariums seldom need fertilizer. Do not fertilize for at least a year after planting. If after the first year the plants appear yellowish and seem to lack vigor without any other apparent problems, a light fertilization may be necessary. Use a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at about one-fourth the rate recommended for normal houseplants. Do not allow any of this fertilizer solution to remain on the foliage. For Just A Moss is not necessary.

Other care
Although a terrarium is designed for growing plants indoors with minimum care, it is not an inanimate object. Some plants will thrive, and others may die. Occasionally, it will become necessary to remove certain plants or add others. When adding plants, take all precautions described for planting the new terrarium. Adding new problems is always possible when adding new plants.


Terrarium Tips for New Assembly


Using a steak knife is helpful in construction. The pointed tip allows you to push down the moss into the soil along the edge to give the terrarium a clean finished look. Kind of like the sand art in a pushes the moss down cleanly. This will not damage your moss. The knife is also good to remove items that are in those tall jars that is hard to get your hands in to.

Use a spray bottle on the stream setting to spray against glass and push down those small particles and dirt from the side of the glass down into the soil. A small paint brush is also helpful to brush away dry dirt or debris present on glass.

Wrapping your ferns with moss of the sheet style will protect the roots and also give a clean finished look to the terrarium.

Be sure to water the terrarium well when it is all put together for the first time. Then watering or misting only as needed (when no more condensation is being made)for closed terrariums and may need weekly if an open style that is not a preserved one.

Remember that your terrariums are better on the cooler side. High heat humid conditions are not as good as a cooler environment. Do not over water them and taking the lid off for air circulation is also a plus. Placing in front of a window with lots of sun really heats the glass up and can cook your moss & lichens.

De-chlorinated water is best! You can fill a jug with water then let it sit for 24 hours to be sure it has no chlorine left. Distilled water can be use as well .

Remember earthworms are good for your terrariums and kids do like to see them travel in the soil!

Bug Control:

If you purchase moss soil etc from me it is all Pesticide free because many use these items with their vivarium tanks and pesticides are harmful to frogs and such. Since this then is all natural...your soil/moss may contain small eggs from gnats or grasshoppers or even small ants etc. You can easily rid these by microwaving your soil or heating in oven. For the moss if you do see a bug present you can apply some pesticide to a cotton ball then place in jar to take care of those live bugs you may see.

Can I mix live and preserved moss in my terrariums?

NO it is best not to especially if it is a closed lid terrarium as this will cause mold. Sometimes it can be used(preserved) if in an open container or used where you might be able to remove prior to watering...but best not to mix the 2 types.


Mold In My Moss



Why do I have mold in my moss terrarium?

Many have asked “Why do I have Mold?” The main reason for mold is over-watering your Terrarium.
Because Mold/Fungus is a natural occurring organism in the moss soil will multiply given the
right conditions and moist humid conditions is what it loves!

You can do several things here...first take the lid off to allow air drying of the container. Also use a Q-Tip
to remove the mold you can see. Moss has no roots so you can pick up the piece to also remove any
mold/fungus (even rinse with water) you see then replace into container.

Your terrarium of moss prefers cooler temps and is ALWAYS better to be on the more dry side than to
over-water. Moss/Lichens can and will go into a dormant state when water is not present. It may turn a
lighter/different color when dry than moist but can stay alive like this for months. Over-watering on the
other hand will KILL your moss/lichen.

With this all said...remove the lid of a moldy terrarium and allow it to dry up some after you have
removed any visible mold. Lids can stay off terrariums but may need to be watered just a bit more
because of the more dry arid conditions. So watering 1 time every 7-10 days instead of 1 time every 3-4
weeks may need to be done.

Another cause for the mold is if you combine Preserved moss or some other types of items that may cause mold like
natural items of wood or pine cones etc. in there...some of those items may also cause mold to start to grow on them
and then transfer to your moss.

Remember all homes and jars will be different so you may need to adjust watering to YOUR home
environment. These are basic guidelines for you to follow only. You can always contact me at for more questions.

A friend just sent me this link above . It is an awesome site with many moss ideas. Be sure to check it out!


Here is an easy moss garden you can create with haircap moss and stepping stones. Remember moss prefers shade but this can take the sun a    bit more so long as you keep it watered. See where someone in China has designed this beauty!
Moss Starter For Your Yard
The moss starter that I sell works great mixed with the sodium polyacrylate crystals to use for painting the moss mixture on rocks statues etc. It helps the moss to stick better to those structures. You can get the moss paint in the web store...if you need some of the crystals let me know. The crystals are not necessary if you just want to use this in between walkway pavers etc or just to spread in the yard like you are planting grass seed.

Each piece of moss will just continue to grow and can be tossed in your yard to continue growing. Remember moss does prefer more shaded areas and moisture to grow. So as yours is getting started you might want to continue to spray a bit with water. The recipe mixture as far as painting on rocks is included when you buy the bag of moss starter.Mixing like this makes the moss a bit heavier so it will not blow away and gives nutrients and a starter that in itself produces an environment for moss to grow new and in.
Listed above is the spot where you can buy it now.

Moss Propagation

The moss starter bag is filled with at least 6 Oz of various moss varieties.The majority is the pillow moss with several other types to give you a beautiful collection. I have finely shredded all the pieces so all you have to do is mix as directed on laber and pour or brush into pavers etc. This is a dry product so shelf life is unlimited.
Selaginella-Peacock Spikemoss

This creeping plant is spectacular as a ground cover in terrariums performing like a champ under low light. It’s the low light which brings out the deep shimmering peacock blue. Often sold as an outdoor ground cover where it takes subfreezing temperatures. Takes a few years to become established so you may want to mulch it the first few years. Great as a hanging basket too.

Selaginella uncinata, or Peacock Spikemoss*, is a very attractive form of Selaginella native to China. It is semi-evergreen in nature and has straw colored rambling stems with dimorphic metallic blue leaves. Plants will reach about 6 inches (15 cm) in height and will spread to 2 feet (60 cm) wide. They produce root-like rhizophores along the weak stems and are easily fragmented. They make great plants for hanging baskets or as a ground cover in the landscape (hardy in USDA zones 6-10). *Like other members of the genus Selaginella, common names with the word 'moss' and 'fern' are misleading; they are part of a quite distant ancestral line belonging to Phylum Lycophyta.

Blooming: Selaginella species are spore-producing plants that are frequently referred to as "fern allies." This group however separated early from the ferns and is much closer to lycopods and quillworts. These do not produce flowers but form inconspicuous cones (or strobili) 0.4 inch (1 cm) long and distinctly 4-keeled.

Culture: Selaginella uncinata is very easy to grow, only requiring a rich moist soil and shade. In the greenhouse, we use a soil mix consisting of 2 parts peat moss to 1 part loam, with small pine bark added. The plants are grown in at least 50% shade at all times and plants are kept moist. They respond to light fertilizer applications on a weekly basis with a balanced fertilizer diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label. During the winter months, we maintain this species in cool rooms in which the temperature runs about 45°F (9°C) at night. Water is somewhat restricted, but the plants are never allowed to dry thoroughly.

Deep green, feathery foliage with an iridescent teal blue overlay - the color and texture is fantastic! In winter, the color turns dark rose to rust in color. Grow in shaded areas in moist soil. Great as a low-maintenance ground cover in difficult situations. Hardy zones 8 (with protection) - 10. Can be grown indoors, in pots, hanging baskets and in seasonal color baskets.


Hypnum Moss/Sheet Moss 


Hypnum resembles a beautiful carpet like a finely manicured golf course lawn. This is great for your bonsai planters. Simply lay it on top of the soil. Weather it is dry or misted with water it still looks nice and stays green wet or dry.Very carefree moss that is sure to brighten many spots for you. 

Photo above shows the carpet moss growing on tree,this is what it looks like dried out.


Angel sitting on a section of carpet moss with spores present.



Fern Moss  

Common Name: The Delicate Fern Moss another sheet moss variety.

Habitat: A terrestrial moss usually found growing on moist, shaded soil, humus, rocks, logs, or stumps. It may also be found growing at the moist base of trees
Family: Thuidiaceae
Genus: Thuidium (thoo-ID-ee-um) 
Species: delicatulum (del-lih-KAY-tew-lum)

Fun facts about Thuidium: It is used by horticulturists for orchid cultivation and in the Himalayan Highlands for chinking in buildings.

This is a quick spreading moss and can  cover large areas in one season


under 6 in. (15 cm)


USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)

Sun Exposure
Partial to Full Shade

Grown for foliage

Other details
Requires consistently moist soil; do not let dry out between waterings

Soil pH requirements
5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)

Propagation Methods
By simple layering



Fern moss used in an outside open shade garden with my handmade rams horn snail.(Real shell used).This moss spreads quickly and loves more moisture.


Pillow/Cushion Moss-Leucobryum glaucum

Since they obtain all their nutrients from the air (moss has no true roots), cushion moss plants require nothing more than shade, acidic soil, and adequate moisture to flourish. All moss plants need is a firm soil bed in a location with adequate shade. It is also imperative that the area in which moss plants will be grown is blown or swept clear of any existing plants, leaves or debris. Most moss also seems to prefer poor quality soils with low nutrient levels. Forms really neat clumps from small perfect little round mounds to larger irregular shaped mounds. 

Once the moss is placed onto the soil, the sections of moss plants must be pressed firmly (do not flatten mounds) into position and watered regularly for the first 2-3 weeks. 

1.Moss has no root system it anchors itself to the ground using rhizoids.
2.Moss has no vascular tissue for sending nutrients and water throughout the plant.
3.Moss gets its nourishment from the air, photosynthesis, and water.
4.Under stressful conditions moss & lichens are able to temporarily stop growing and go dormant.
5.Moss reproduces by means of spores which are very dependent on an ample supply of moisture. As moss does not take up moisture through a root system, it is much happier receiving moisture through misting or rainwater instead of a drenching.


            Feels so good under your bare feet!

Below is a patch of moss where I harvest my moss. This is a good moss for terrariums...however do not over-water   

Photo below shows a thick section of pillow moss. Pillow & Mood moss is so great that if flipped over it will start to then grow green again from that bottom side...If your piece is to thick for a project, you can trim off that brownish section and set it aside and it to will grow green again after a few weeks/months with the right

Tiny Pillow moss bundles shown above, this is how each piece of pillow moss starts out and just grows out larger and larger.


Above is another photo of the pillow moss. This time a larger section cut in half to show you how thick it can grow. Look close and see th spores that are also popping up from here.


Reindeer Moss

This is a gorgeous spongy feeling moss. It can be used as a ground cover or you can even put some into your potted plants to keep your cats from digging into the dirt!

It looks great in an assortment of moss that you make into a living moss basket as shown in photo below. When dried out it can be painted or dyed any color for many more uses like dried floral wreaths or even for the railroad hobbyist as trees.

Remember that the natural thing for this moss to do because it is a lichen is to dry and be brittle if not watered. Even in this state it is alive...the color is more white or gray just be careful as it is very delicate and brittle in this state so it can break. Even if a piece does break off...keep it too as it is still alive.

When it is sprayed or watered again either by you or becomes more green and spongy again.

This grows all over in both sun and shade in my yard. Grows not as big and tall in the sunnier areas.

As for the zones , it is growing in many area's in the US and has been found also in other countries. 

 Identifying Characteristics
Reindeer moss is a lichen that forms pillow-like colonies of dense, branching ground cover. It rarely reaches more than 7" in height.
There are no leaves on the plants.
The fruit consists of wind-dispersed spores, which are rarely seen.
The stems are hollow and branch in pairs.
Reindeer moss grows in sandy soil in pine-hardwood forests and along forest edges.



 I do have the colored reindeer/deerfoot moss available as well in the web store.

 Mood Moss-Frog Moss-Rock Cap Moss-Broom Moss

So many names for this beautiful moss...I love the fact that both dry and damp it looks so nice which makes it nice for an open style terrarium because of this.

Dicranum is a genus of mosses, also called Wind-Blown Mosses or Fork Mosses. These mosses form in densely packed clumps. Stems may fork, but do not branch. In general, upright stems will be single but packed together. These are commonly found in Jack pine or Red pine stands.

Dicranum transplants well into shady areas and is a good selection for rock gardens and has been used in Japanese gardens for centuries. It is extremely hardy and survives harsh conditions.

I will be adding photos to show you both the dry look and wet look of this moss soon.






Broom Mosses

Broom Mosses

Dicranum flagellare
Whip Fork Moss


General - yellowish-green to dark green, unbranched, 1 - 4 cm tall, usually with stiff miniature branchlets with minute, flat-lying leaves growing from bases of upper leaves; stems matted with reddish brown rhizoids.

Leaves - irregularly curled and wavy when dry, not wrinkled, lance-shaped, 3 - 5 mm long, pointed, concave below, tube-shaped above; smooth-edged or toothed near tip.

Sporophytes - stalk yellow to brown, single, 1 - 2 cm long; capsule yellowish brown to brown, erect, straight, 2 - 2.5 mm long, furrowed lengthwise when dry.


Rotten wood or bases of trees; occasionally on humus; fairly common across Northwestern Ontario's boreal forest north to N.W.T.; circumpolar.


Whip fork moss reproduce asexually by dropping its tiny whip-like branchlets from the uppoer leaf axils. Whip fork moss could be confused with a less common species, fragile cushion moss (D. fragilifolium). However, fragile cushion moss has no stiff branchlets and its straight leaves usually have their tips broken off. Also, the capsules of fragile cushion moss are inclined and curved rather than ererct and straight. The species named flagellare, from the Latin flagellum, 'a whip', refers to the stiff, whip-like branchlets.

Dicranum polysetum
Electric Eels or Wavy Dicranum


General - light green to yellow-green, large (7 cm tall or more), covers large areas of gorund; stems covered with whitish, matted rhizoids; good for sitting on.

Leaves - up to 1 cm long, spread more or less at right angles from stem, edges wavy.

Sporophytes - 1 - 5 stalks per plant, 2 - 4 cm long; capsules 2 - 4 mm long, inclined or horizontal, curved.


Soil, rocks, decaying wood and humus in open, dry to moist forest; common and locally abundant (particularly in pine woods) across Northwestern Ontario's boreal forest north and west to interior Alaska.


In most common Dicranum mosses (including electric eels), the male plants have been reduced to tiny buds on the leaves of female plants. This combines the advantages of having the sexes separate, to encourage outbreeding, with the convenience of having plants of the opposite sex nearby, to increase the chances of fertilization. Perhaps this is the reason that sporophytes are so common on the Dicranum mosses. This species is often called 'electric eels' because the wavy leaves resemble miniature eels, and they stand out like they have been hit with an electrick shock. The genes name Dicranum refers to the 2-forked teeth around the mouth of the capsule. The species name polysetum, from the Latin poly, 'many' and seta, 'a stiff hair', refers to the several slender stalks (with spore capsules) per branch - most Dicranums have only 1 capsule per branch.

Dicranum scoparium
Brook Moss


General - erect, little branched, densely matted rhizoids on lower stems; forms large cushions and sometimes mats, 2 - 8 cm high.

Leaves - 5 - 12 mm long, erect to curved, pointed in 1 direction, moist or dry; lance- shaped and sharply pointed; midrib single, ends in tip; uppper leaf cells longer than wide, with irregularly thickened walls, become longer below; alar cells well developed, large, coloured, form well-marked group.

Sporophytes - often present, produced at plant tips; stalk single, straight, long; capsules curved, inclined, cylindrical, smooth; capsule teeth single.


Tree bases, humus, rotting logs and rock outcrops; common across Northwestern Ontario's boreal forest; circumpolar.


D. howellii. Cushion mosses (Dicranum spp.) are common throughout most of the boreal forest. They are identified by their medium to large size, erect stems, and leaves that curve to 1 side. Broom moss is one of the largest, most common species. The 4, well-developed, toothed ridges along the back of the midrib are characteristic of this species. At a more detailed level, the upper leaf cells of broom moss are longer than wide. Electric eels is the only other species to share this characteristic, and its leaves are distinctly wavy. Broom moss is often used by florists to make banks of green in show windows. The species name scoparium, from the Latin scopae, 'a broom' and the common name 'broom moss', both refer to the leaves of this moss, which look like they were swept to one side by someone sweeping the forest.





Rough stalk Feather Moss GREAT FOR BONSAI

Shown below is the moss with dragonfly's on it.

Rough stalk Feather moss is a beautiful type of a sheet moss. it covers many of the cedar trees here as well as other trees,rocks etc.

This moss likes to climb over rocks limbs and whatever else it can. It also forms into thick shag like carpet patches. Also can be placed on top of planters and then misted. This is also seen in the moss basket I made above with reindeer moss too.


This moss also does great in both open and closed style containers bonsai etc or just planted in the yard. This moss is so soft and stays really green even dry.





Live Moss/Lichen covered Cedar bark

This is gorgeous moss & Lichen covered bark. Most of the moss is of the rough-stalked feather varieties. It will dry out but if not terribly neglected it will plump back up and green up with the next rain fall or when you mist it.

You can use this in your terrariums or vivariums. The lichen that is on the bark does not like the more humid conditions of a terrarium and may be better suited in a larger tank/vivarium etc. If it starts to turn brown, you know it is getting to much moisture.

Want instant branches outside with that lovely moss? Just attach it to your branches with fishing line!  




 Hair Cap Moss

Hair cap moss has soil anchoring structures that closely resemble and function like roots. For this reason, I ship this variety in a 1 piece section depending on size you order with some soil still attached.

Hair cap moss can grow up to about 6". Hair cap moss prefers medium shade to partial sun, and likes sandy soil. The more sun and drier conditions the shorter it grows.



Assortment of Live Moss plants 

You will be getting a variety of Live moss containing at least 6 varieties in a quart sized bag.

May contain,cushion,Reindeer,Tropical,Fern Haircap and more. It will be various sizes and equal to (8x8" in quart bag) or regular sized sandwich bag. Photo shows where I have put all the assorted moss plants into a basket. makes a beautiful centerpiece great for weddings!


 Organic Soil- Moss starter 

I have designed a mixture or all organic soil that I use to grow my moss on and use in my own terrariums. No fungus or mold spores are present in this soil and it contains the right mixture or organic matter as well as humas and sand.

NO PESTICIDES are ever used on my plants 


Live Moss Starter Kit 

You will be getting assorted Live moss pieces in a quart size bag. Included is the recipe for you to take this shredded moss and mix it to use as a paint to apply onto rocks, bricks ,outside garden structures and more.Can be poured between flagstone paths as well.

Moss pieces may include but are not limited to : Cushion,hair cap, fern,tropical, rock cap, reindeer and more.

Here is a great link I found on moss!

Moss/Lichen Branches

 You can get assorted lengths and styles of the moss and lichen branches.The longest I can get is about 48" to avoid over-sized pricing. I can send branches that are just lichen and may have some moss, or a variety of moss and lichen or just mainly moss (larger spots of moss) and some lichens.

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